MADE TO MEASURE BRIDAL GOWNS
Are you thinking of having your wedding gown made to measure, but not really sure about what’s involved? Can a couturier really
create your perfect gown exactly as you desire?
Lisa Merton from Culture Shock Bridal and Eveningwear guides us through the “Bridal Couture” process, and explains your options.
Why Choose Couture?
Choosing what you will wear on your wedding day has a huge impact on the look and style of your whole wedding. Many girls dream about their ideal gowns long before they have even met their future partners, whilst others like to shop around and try on lots of different styles to help them reach their decision. Photos from bridal magazines and other peoples’ weddings can be a great source of inspiration and can make your search a lot easier, but sometimes no matter how hard you look, you just cannot find the perfect dress for your big day. This is when you need a couturier to create a dress that is designed and made specifically for you!
The term “couture” simply means “made to measure”, and a “couturier” is a professional who can design, source the fabric, patternmake, cut and sew a gown to your exact measurements, incorporating all the requirements you need (budget, style, colour, fabrics, trimmings, etc). Couturiers specialize in their own signature style, and with a bit of research you can find one whose style appeals to you. Most couturiers adapt and make up their own designs for you, whilst others are happy to work to your design, or a mutually satisfying mix of both. (Note- most couturiers will not copy someone else’s work….if you simply want to copy a picture, then what you need is a dressmaker, not a couturier.)
Some of the many advantages of working with a couturier are:
Getting Exactly What You Want- every detail is approved by you, and if you want to change a detail such as sleeves, neckline, etc, you can!
Perfect fit- no matter what size and shape you are, your couture gown should fit you perfectly
High quality- in design, fabrics, trims, fitting, workmanship and most importantly, personal service
Individuality- a unique one-off design that can truly be called your own
Co-ordination- couturiers can design outfits for your entire bridal party, from flowergirls and bridesmaids through to the mother of the bride and groom
Flexibility- throughout the making process, adjustments can be made to improve the fit and look of the gown, and most couturiers are also flexible with appointment times to suit your busy lifestyle
The process of having your gown made to measure by a couturier is time-consuming but well worth the effort. The gown needs to be constructed over a period of time with several key stages as I will explain below. Of course, all couturiers have their own special ways of working, but in general here is a step by step guide:
- Timeframe
A couture wedding gown can take anywhere from 3 to 12 months to make, depending on how busy the couturier is and how far in advance they require a booking. Exclusive imported fabrics can take months to order in, and delicate hand-work such as beading and embroidery is very time-consuming. In general, you should start looking around as soon as you can, and allow at least 6 to 8 months wherever possible. Smaller couturiers could make a wedding gown in 3 months, but larger businesses will need more time to co-ordinate their orders.
- Budget
Despite popular belief, it is not necessarily more expensive to have a wedding gown made to measure. Compared to exclusive designer labels and European imports, a couture gown is indeed great value when you consider the quality of workmanship, originality of design and the fact that you are getting exactly what you want! A smaller sized couturier with lower overheads has a lot to offer in terms of value for money and friendly personal service. Depending on the quality, fabrics selected and amount of work involved, most couture gowns will cost anywhere between $4,000 to $15,000. The average COUTURE price would be somewhere around the $4,500 -$5,000 mark, although it is possible to get a simple yet stylish gown for under $3,000. If you are conscious of keeping the price down, try to reduce the amount of hand-work such as beading or embroidery, and keep the style simple. Using man-made fibres such as polyester rather than silk can reduce the price slightly, but it doesn’t really make that much difference … the bulk of the cost is in the labour.
- Research Your Style
Before you choose your couturier and design your gown, it is highly recommended that you take some time to look around and try on different styles. Visit a number of bridal boutiques and try on different skirt and bodice shapes to see which ones suit your figure and emphasise your best assets. The most flattering shapes will disguise your weaker points and highlight your strongest, and it is wise to keep an open mind and consider all options. It is also good to identify the styles that suit you the least, so you are aware of what you don’t like and can eliminate them from your list of possibilities. Colour selection can also be aided by trying on gowns in various colours to see which shades suit your skin and hair colouring. Don’t be afraid to seek advice from the salesperson, and bring a friend along to give you an honest opinion. Collect pictures of gowns that you like for one reason or another (sleeve, neckline, colour, fabric, etc) and use these pictures to help describe what you are after when you meet with your couturier.
- Choose Your Couturier
Finding the right couturier requires a bit of research. Look in bridal magazines, wedding service directories, visit bridal exhibitions, and use the various internet wedding websites.
Ask your friends and family if they can recommend anyone – word of mouth is the best advertisement a couturier can have! Each couturier will have their own distinctive look and style, so find one that appeals to you then visit them to see their work. You should look at the quality of their workmanship in their sample gowns, see photos of real-life brides, find out what styles they do best, and enquire about their pricing. Check out their fabric ranges and compare the quality and choice. Finding a couturier that communicates well with you is essential … you need to understand each other and develop a good working relationship so that the process of creating your dream gown will be fun, relaxing and stress-free. Write yourself a list of questions that you can ask the couturiers, and take a friend along for a second opinion.
- Design Your Gown
Once you have chosen your couturier, the fun can begin! Designing your gown together with your couturier should be very satisfying, exciting and enjoyable. Be honest and tell your couturier exactly what you want, and let them guide you with their knowledge and experience. They should be able to tell you if the style you want will suit your figure and colourings, and they may suggest other alternatives to improve the look. With your budget in mind, let them give you a few options or variations on your style, and take a few days to think about it before you decide … no need to rush into it! Your couturier can sketch up different views of your dress (back, front, side, etc) and make sure you discuss every detail of the dress so nothing is left to chance. Do not be afraid to tell the couturier if you disagree with any aspect of the design – it is crucial that you both agree on the details of the gown before work commences.
- Select Your Fabrics
Whilst designing your gown, your couturier will explain to you which fabrics are best suited to that particular style, and will show you their range. Some couturiers will allow you to bring along your own fabrics if desired, but normally the couturier will supply all fabrics and trim. The cut of the dress greatly affects the fabric selection, especially with “bias cut” which needs a drapey fabric (not stiff). The most popular fabrics in bridal couture are pure silk duchess satin, silk crepes, failles, chiffons and drapey silk satins. Laces and beaded chiffons are also widely used. The best quality bridal fabrics come from Europe (French, Italian, Swiss) however there are now many high quality fabrics coming out of Asia that are less expensive but equally stunning. Generally speaking, pure silk is superior to any other fibre because it holds colour and lustre so well, and is a dream to work with. Silk does crush, however, but there are ways of working with silk that can prevent crushing, such as linings and stiffenings used to support the outer layer of the gown. If you are not sure which fabrics you want, ask your couturier to show you examples of gowns in different fabrics and take note of the drape, texture and sheen.
- Confirm Your Contract
Once you have chosen your individual design and selected the appropriate fabrics and trims, your couturier will give you a final price. Make sure you receive the contract in writing, so that you both agree on the details, fitting and completion dates and all associated costs. Most couturiers require a deposit before they commence work, which is usually around 30% of the total price. They will then require a number of other payments, and the final payment will need to be made in full before the dress is collected. Cancellations are generally not accepted once work has begun, so make sure you are happy before you hand over your deposit, as this is generally not refundable.
- Fittings
Achieving the perfect fit is of utmost importance, and to achieve this your couturier will need to fit your gown on you around 5 or 6 times during the construction process. Most couturiers will firstly make up a calico “toile”, which is a sample gown made of calico used to trial the pattern before the bridal fabric is cut. The toile fitting is your big chance to check all details such as necklines, hemlines, sleeve lengths, and the general proportion and shape of the gown. Look closely at the calico gown on your body, and tell your couturier if there are any points you are not happy with, or if anything is not clear to you. Wherever possible, make sure you bring your shoes and lingerie to each fitting. If you do not have your shoes at the early stages, substitute them with a pair of similar height. The bra you wear will affect the bustline of the dress, so select the appropriate bra as early as you can and always have it with you at fittings. Of course, many wedding gowns have built-in bras, so discuss this option with your couturier during the design process. Your final fitting should be as close to the wedding date as possible, just in case you gain or lose weight or change shape – your couture gown should fit you perfectly!
- Choose Your Accessories
Once your gown is underway, selecting your accessories should be lots of fun and not too challenging. Ask your couturier for a cutting (swatch) of your fabric to match up colours. Lingerie needs to suit the fit and cut of the dress, and should be purchased as soon as possible. Shoes are also needed early on in the process, as the height of the heel will affect the hemline. Jewellery is often the hardest choice, and with your dress only partially made, it can be difficult to imagine what kind of necklace will suit the neckline and the overall theme of your outfit. Ask your couturier for advice, and have a good look around before you decide on a piece. Try to select a few possibilities then wait until the dress is almost finished before you decide. Hair accessories such as clips, flowers and veils should compliment the feel and look of your gown. It is best not to appear too cluttered or fussy, so discuss these details with your couturier to ensure the overall flavour of your gown is not compromised. Many couturiers also make co-ordinating veils, wraps, bags and even jewellery, which can save you lots of time and tie into your theme perfectly.
- Bridesmaids and Bridal Party
Never choose your bridesmaids’ outfits before your dress is designed! They need to look great, but you are the star of the show and they should compliment you, not overpower you. Traditionally matching outfits for bridesmaids are most popular, but these days it is equally acceptable to have your girls in similar colours or styles that suit them as individuals, but not necessarily matching. Their outfits should be along the same lines as yours in terms of the mood … soft and flowing, or formal, or relaxed … your dress will set the mood for theirs. The budget you set for the bridesmaids will determine whether you buy off the rack or have them made by a couturier. Generally speaking, couturiers will charge at least $500 per bridesmaid for an outfit, going up to $1000 each for a detailed gown. Off the rack, however, you can achieve a much lower price of around $200 - $300 each if you shop around together with your girls, but finding the right fit, colour and range can be difficult. Flowergirls’ dresses will generally cost around $200 made to measure, but if this price is not suitable, try second-hand flowergirl dresses, or even borrow them from friends! And the mother of the bride and groom can look amazing if you get your couturier to design outfits to suit the mood and style of your wedding – prices generally start at $500 each. Matching ties and hankies for your groom and groomsmen can easily be arranged with your couturier using the same or similar fabric as your bridesmaids– just ask!
- Final Fitting
As the big day draws closer, it is important to remain calm and relax during your final fittings! Hand-work such as intricate beading is often done once the garment is almost finished, so as not to interfere with seams, etc. Linings, hems and zippers or buttons are left until last to easily adjust should the need arise. Arrange to have a fitting together with your bridesmaids and your couturier so you can see how you all look as a group. Ask your couturier to show the bridesmaids how to dress you, with zippers, buttons and hooks explained so they know exactly what to do. Any extra details such as trains, veils or wraps should be shown to the girls so there are no questions on the day. Some couturiers will even offer to come and dress you on your wedding day, especially if your gown is delicate or complicated. Once your gown is completed, do your final fit with the correct lingerie, shoes, hair accessories and jewellery. View your gown from different angles and mirrors to see the hems, neckline, closures, etc, and move around in the dress to check the comfort and reliability. You should be able to sit, walk, bend over, reach out and hug people, and walk up or down steps without undue strain or discomfort. Check with your couturier on how the dress should be stored (hanging or flat) and make sure you have the correct cleaning instructions. Some couturiers can hold your dress at their studio until the big day, if you are worried about transportation or storage at your place. Make sure you confirm pick-up or delivery instructions and minimize the amount of handling so the dress will not get crushed. On the day, allow plenty of time to get dressed so you will not feel rushed.
Well, there you have it, a step by step guide to the process of having a wedding gown made to measure. With an expert couturier creating your dress, their reputation is on the line and they will go out of their way to make sure you are more than happy with your gown and the service they provide. There are endless possibilities of what you can achieve with your couturier, all you need is to trust in them and their expertise!
For more information or any queries, please don’t hesitate to contact me and I will be happy to assist.
By Lisa Merton
Culture Shock Bridal and Eveningwear
email: lisa@culture-shock.com.au
www.culture-shock.com.au
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